Do you want to visit a natural phenomenon that fascinates scientists already since the Middle Ages? In that case you have to visit the mud volcanoes of Nirano.
Established as the first natural reserve in Emilia-Romagna, the so called “Salse di Nirano” are a unique geologic phenomenon in Italy. Tucked between rolling hills the area is known for its eruptive “salse” or mud volcanoes.
Practical information
How to reach?
The natural reserve ‘salse di Nirano’ is situated around 74 km from Parma.
Coordinates for GPS: Via Rio Salse, 41042 Fiorano Modenese.
Where to park?
There are some big parking lots in the neighbourhood of the trattoria (with the original name) Far West.
Equipment? Put on boots or walking shoes. Some spots are very slippery because of the mud/clay. Stamp or rub off your shoes immediately afterwards. I forgot to do this and didn't get the clay from my shoes anymore. :-).
Trail
Combine trail 1, 5 and 8 in order to have the complete mud volcano experience. See link to map. The walk will take about 2 hours without stops. The walking paths are for Italian standarts clearly indicated. When you leave the parking lot (see nr. 2), you will see next to the trattoria Far West a small path.
That is the starting point of the hike. You cross the wooden fence to a sandy/grassy path. Climbing up this path you will pass 2 small ponds. Once above you have a very nice view on the hills and the vineyards. The hills are dotted with vines. On the top of the hill you will see the field with the mud volcanoes.
De Salse di Nirano or ‘the mudvolcanoes’ . provide a breathtaking spectacle. The geological phenomenon arises when mud, organic material, methan gas, salty water is mixed. That's the way how cones, up to 3 meters heigh, are created. “Salse” refers to the presence of salt in the mud ejected by the volcanoes.
A mud volcano has nothing to do with a real volcano. In the case of a mud volcano there is no heat dissolving rocks into magma. Gas is the force behind the - by no means spectacular - mud eruptions.
The best known and most important mud volcanoes in Italy are those in Nirano but in this region you will find some more such as in Lesignano de' Bagni (Parco Barboj Via Rivalta, 6, 43037 Fossola PR). In Modena there was already in ancient times a fairly important industry of ceramics. I was told that they took the clay for the ceramics out of these mud volcanoes. There is even a legend that states that one day an ox with a cart ended up in a volcanic crater and sank away.
We didn't walk along such a large craters. Those we saw had only a diameter of between 20 and 30 cm. In reality, it are small bubbling holes. The highest mud volcano is about three meters. For safety reasons the visitor is prohibited to come close to the volcanoes. Therefore, a wooden educational path was constructed to walk on.
When it is silent you hear the 'blub' sounds coming out of the soil. To see the small stream of mud coming over the edge of the cone after each 'blub' was a lovely experience. Until the 1970s the mud had a medical and cosmetic use: in fact it was used for mud masks and mud baths at the Salvarola Spa. Nowadays the oil and mud is used only for scientific purposes.
More info: Visit Modena - Riserva naturale salse di Nirano
Where to lunch?
Hungry after these efforts? Drive to Borgo Castelvetro di Modena, which is a short distance away.
Highly recommended is L'Église (Via Tasso n.9/11 - 41014 Castelvetro di Modena)
Castelvetro di Modena is a cute town and got a Bandiere Arancioni of Touring Club Italiano as one of the borghi piu ali d'italia. At the central square, the Piazza Roma, a giant chessboard has been paved with black and white tiles. Every 2 years the village organize the 'Dama Vivente'. This is a chess game with living pawns (especially children and girls) in historical costumes. The central square is surrounded by the town hall, the bell tower dating from the 13th century and the prison tower, which is 22 meters high.
From the central square you have a beautiful panoramic view on the valley and the surrounding hills. There is also a cozy small cantina where you can taste balsamic vinegar.
More info about Castelvetro di Modena.
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